Track Trailer Forum

2005 Mk11 Track Tvan.

Purchased from the original owner in Sept, 2013 it's always garaged when not in use by current and previous owner.

This Tvan is in EXCELLENT condition and would especially suit a fussy buyer, hence all of the modifications/new items added (I'm a bit OCD).  All of the NEW items listed were only fitted in Sept/Oct 2014 for a trip we did up the coast to sunny Qld, since then she has been back in the garage.  There is a little bit of stone chipping to the silver powder coat on the front of the van above the height of the stone deflectors, there are no scratches or pinstriping. 

This was a special build from Track trailer hence the cream body colour and the aluminium walls as in the later models.

Seriously, all a purchaser would need to do is add their own linen and go camping.

The 2 setup photo's were taken Nov/Dec 14 and the rest were taken today, 30/4/15.

PM me if you're interested and I will send you my phone No.

$33500.

EXTERIOR/CHASSIS
  *  MC2 asymmetric suspension.
  *  70 l water tank.
  *  Rear firewood rack.
  *  Slide out kitchen with either the std 2 burner fitted gas hotplate OR as I have been using it - I removed the hotplates and fitted a 
      stainless cover plate in place and use a high output Companion wok burner.
  *  Sink/cutlery slide out with electric water pump to tap.
  *  Hand water pump at rear.
  *  5 Jerry can holders.
  *  16" Landcruiser 5 stud rims with Cooper S/T 265/75/16" tyres x 3.
  *  95 Ah Exide AGM battery (Aug 2013) fitted in marine box.
  *  Stone deflectors and spare wheel frame refinished with bed armour and epoxy paint (Dec 2013).
  *  Shock protection guards.
  *  New disc brake pads fitted Aug 2013.
  *  New Koni shocks fitted Aug 2013.
  *  New Electo/Hydraulic disc brake actuator conversion (fitted Dec 2013) with park brake function.
  *  New 3.5 T Ozhitch fitted Dec 2013.
  *  2 NEW 4kg gas cylinders (full) plus hoses and taps.
  *  4 NEW jerry cans (2 water, 2 diesel).
  *  NEW wheel bearings/seals/axle nuts/caps Oct 2014.
  *  All water pipes checked/some replaced and all clamped.
  *  NEW deck springs fitted.
  *  NEW deck legs, current design.
  *  NEW hatch gas struts.
  *  NEW exterior LED light fitted, remote and dimmable.
  *  NEW Coleman Hot Water On Demand with mains pressure converter/shower and carry bag.
  *  NEW Dometic 972 toilet in carry bag.  This has only ever had chemical solution flushed though it to ensure it worked.

INTERIOR.
  *  Custom made under bed drawers, lockable.
  *  Bed extension.
  *  Bed tiedown rails.
  *  Overhead storage nets.
  *  Ceiling/walls fabric lined.
  *  Flyscreens on both roof hatches.
  *  Curtains fitted to side windows.
  *  NEW LED bed head lights.
  *  NEW LED main light.
  *  NEW LED hatch light remote/dimmable.
  *  NEW Caframo Sirocco fan.
  *  NEW 19" LED TV/DVD on swing mount.
  *  NEW remote head (for tuning) TV antenna and mast.
  *  NEW 15 amp Projecta IC1500 Inteli charge 240v battery charger.
  *  NEW carpet.

CANVAS.
  *  NEW sail awning.  Used once.
  *  NEW  Track ensuite.  Unused.
  *  NEW aluminium supa-peg poles for ALL canvas.
  *  Full awning.
  *  2 x end walls and 1 x long wall for awning.  Unused.
  *  Draught skirt.
  *  Rear flyscreen hatch cover (quick setup).

Hi there,

I'm currently 4 weeks into a 6 week trip and are at Maroochydore and got a bit of rain overnight and today, thankfully missed what the poor buggers in Brisbane got 

Anyhow, this has happened to me before and it's really annoying me now and hoping someone here can assist with a solution.

I am getting water (rain) coming into the tent area on the bottom corners of the tent mouth that seals around the Tvan. It seems to be wicking its  way down the canvas higher up, possibly where the 'j' shaped ally extrusions are to redirect the water.  It seems to come down there and work it's way over the canvas (bungy cord inside) and then onto the floor.

I have tried the bungy tight and loose, same result, and I make sure the small lip of canvas with the double stitching (inside of Tvan) is over the rubber seal so the canvas isn't actually contacting the main body so to speak of the Tvan just the part the sticks out with the rubber gasket.

Hope this makes sense, any thoughts.

Mick


PS I have also tried the plastic tube over the ends of those 'J' sections to redirect some water away, as I've seen in another thread here some time ago, but the problem still happens.

I finally pulled my finger out and got my drawers built for the Tvan.  I thought I'd start a new thread so as not to confuse with the 'Drifta' drawer thread 

Started with this.....



Turned into this.....




The 'Slick Strips' I used as slides are brilliant, very slippery with a wipe over with a rag with silicone sprayed on it.

I purchased a Caframo sirocco fan for $149 delivered, nice price I thought, from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAFRAMO-360-DEGREE-ROTATING-CABIN-FAN-TRUCK-CARAVAN-RV-BOAT-/291079267780?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&hash=item43c5ad25c4&_uhb=1

Anyhow, I have noticed during my trawling of the forum some of you have elected to mount the fan using rare earth magnets.  I think this is a nice way to mount it as it can be used in different locations and in the winter I can just leave it at home.

Those of you who have used the magnets, how have you attached them to the base of the fan? Epoxy maybe?

I'm thinking of using 4 x 1kg magnets!  What and how many did you use?

Thanks

Mick

I'm looking at replacing the 8 amp battery charger I have in the Tvan, its labelled EPS (Electronic Power Systems).  It charges at a max of 14.57v, measured after charging for 2 hours (update - 14.62v after 3 hrs) at the Anderson plug, they state 14.7v output so a bit of voltage drop no doubt due to the cabling.

I have looked at both the Ctek and Projecta chargers.  I'm a bit worried about the Projecta as there seems to have been a few failures on this forum alone with those (please correct me if thats not the case).  I note they are a bit cheaper though which is always a good thing.  I also note that in their manuals they say DO NOT extend the cabling to the battery, but this is obviously what Track do when they are fitted, does this cause any issues.  Mine has also been done this way.

The Ctek M200 15amp and M300 25 amp (marine range) have 4m leads fitted so I guess I could re-route these and fit direct to the battery.

I only have 1 x 90AH calcium Exide fitted to the Tvan at the moment.  In the Landy I have 1 x 55 AH Optima (AGM) and the factory 90AH Varta (Calc).  So the current 8 amp charger in the Tvan is only really suitable for the battery in the Tvan not the whole 3.

I am thinking if I go the way of the M300 (it does up to 500AH's of batteries) I could leave the Landy attached to the Tvan and charge all 3 at the same time.  The M300 would also give the extra AH's over what I have to add another battery in the Tvan.  The M200 will charge up to 300 AH of batteries.

OR

Am I better to have, say 2 x 15 amp chargers, 1 obviously mounted in the Tvan (thats if extending the charger cables isn't an issue) and 1 portable that I could use to charge the Landy's batteries if they needed a boost, I could just run a lead from the Tvan to the car and charge when needed.

Obviously all of this will only happen when I'm at a van park with 240v.  I have a 120w Projecta foldable panel for elsewhere.

I'm only looking at the car charging as we're doing a 6 week trip later in the year and I only intend to drive for maybe 3 hours a day so the car batts won't get a full charge and I have a 40l engel fridge in it.  Plus, I need the charger for the car at home as I don't do a lot of  kms and normally charge the car every fortnight to keep them topped up.

Ok let me know what you've got and any issues or if I'm missing something here.

Mick

G'day Guys,

Just wondering with erecting the ensuite, is it simply zipped on and then 1 pole used in the corner?

I haven't got one yet  just wondering if its that simple or am I missing something.

Is the pattern the same for Mk 11 and Mk 111 Tvans?

Mick

Ok, I have posted this elsewhere but I'm not getting any replies, so I thought I'd try here.

I have a 2012 Landrover Defender 90.  I have a Baintech 6 way fuse box with the + and - inputs which I want to put under my 'modified' cubby box (centre console for you non Landy people  ) or under the drivers seat. The fuse box will be used just for the usual accessories, power outlets, lights etc (future proofing ) it has a 100 amp total rating.

The battery compartment in a defender is under the passenger seat, to get to the underside of the cubby box or the compartment under the driver seat I need to exit the battery compartment and travelling underneath the vehicle.

I installed a Traxide USI 160 dual battery isolator last weekend in the batt compartment with the standard Varta Batt and Optima D34m as the aux.

I was thinking of using 6 B&S cable to connect the aux batt to the fuse box as I already have some left over from the anderson plug install.  It seems each different manufacturer of cable or wiring sites show different amp ratings for cable, I'm confused.....  for example,

Narva is 140 amp based on 60% duty cycle for 5 minutes.

Tycab state 103 amps (AMP RATING: TO JASO D609 derating factors apply).

Thats all double dutch to me unfortunately, it would be nice to see it all uniform.

I don't want to limit my fuse box to 50 amps (circuit breaker) if I can use bigger, if I could find out WHAT the amp rating of the cable actually is.

Questions, do I:

1. Put an 50 amp auto reset circuit breaker in the batt compartment (would this be big enough) to protect the run to the fuse box.

OR

2. Source a 100 amp fuse/circuit breaker for this location.

Thanks

Seeing as there hasn't been one done on the forum as yet and Mal W had asked to keep updated, I thought it might not be a bad idea to start a new thread.

Background.

I have a 2005 Tvan which at the moment has hydraulic override brakes.  Wanting to be able to open the rear door on the Landy fully I needed to get rid of the master cylinder/handbrake assembly perched above the top of the hitch assembly.  Also plus have better brake control.

I looked at the options.  Get new electric drums/hub assemblies which would require having to have the disc brake mounts cut off and the required drum brake ones welded on.  This was just too much trouble. 

So therefore the electric/hydraulic actuator route was the way I chose.  Costs would be pretty similar.  I would need to purchase an in car brake controller for both systems anyhow.  Plus the people I had spoken to and research done was that this system has its pros over straight electric drums.  At this stage I will set it up the same as Kimberley Kampers do with a hydraulic park brake which is simply a separate button to power up the actuator which pressurises the lines with a manual shutoff valve which in turn keep the brakes locked on.

Cost so far.

Felk trailers actuator with breakaway $718 delivered.  Purchased through an ebay seller who is a dealer for them.  This is the link to the unit http://www.felk.com.au/Hydraulic%20Actuators.html
Tekonsha P3 brake controller $164 delivered.

I will be buying a new hitch as well, its a toss up between DO35 and Ozhitch.  The Ozhitch is winning out so far with being able to lock it whilst the van is attached to the car.

I also have to decide on a spot to mount the actuator it measures 255mm long 84mm wide 150mm high.  It does say in the fitting instructions not to mount the unit where it will be immersed in water, I'm thinking this is more so for boat trailers though.  So I'm thinking of mounting it in the tray at the front of the gas cylinders under the spare wheel.  An ideas, chime in.

Mick

Well I got some goodies via the courier today.  First up I will say the service from Track has been great, about 3 phone calls I have made to them and answered every time, and a return call from the service guys  .  Ordered parts on friday, delivered today to NSW.

Anyhow, I have 4 new deck springs to go on.  If anyone has done them are there any tips on removing and replacing.  do I unbolt 1 end and then stretch in place or is there another tricky method?

Mick

This might be a dumb question...........but what is the bird beak (I think thats the correct name) mount on the wall above the kitchen used for?

Evening.........

Well today I went and had the Tvan weighed for the transfer to NSW registration.  NSW RMS now in all there wisdom, even if the vehicle is currently registered with tare weights clearly displayed on the compliance plate they still require a weighbridge certificate unless the manufacturer sends vehicle specifics to them.

Mine is an April '05 Tvan with short drawbar  .  Currently has Vic reg.  The compliance plate states the Tare as 750kg, the ATM as 1250kg, the GTM as 1150kg and the axle loading capacity as 1250kg.

Are these weights/capacities the same as other members Tvans of this era?

First up I weighed it just the bare van with spare wheel, 2 full gas cylinders, 2 empty plastic jerry cans and nothing else, I even had the water tank out and no battery.  It came in at 880kg    Yes very shocked I must say.  Even if I took out the 2 gas cylinders at 25 kg that's still 855kg tare.  105kg over Tracks tare weight 

In NSW trailer vehicle tax component of yearly reg fees are  tare 255kg to 764kg = $105, 765kg to 975kg = $191.  So I thought might as well save $86 a year and reduce the weight.

Back home I go and remove, the 2 empty jerries, the spare, the 2 gas cylinders, the complete kitchen assembly.

I went back and weighed in at 760kg, certificate issued.

Now I am working here of the weights today and of items I have removed and weighed previously.

880kg plus
batt 21kg
70 litre water in water tank approx 75kg
2 x water jerrys in rear carriers to even out tow ball weight  approx 40kg
there's a snappy 1016kg before adding any awning, poles, cooking gear, clothes, food etc. 

That only leaves me with 234 kg for all of those items, I'll be buggered if I want to put 3 full jerrys (approx 60kg) across the front.

How does everbody else manage.........

Mick.

Evening all.  Well today I removed my kitchen, as well as everything else on the Tvan to try and get to the 750kg tare weight on the compliance plate, got to 760kg, close enough.

I know this is all a bit long winded, sorry in advance .

I was going to remove the kitchen anyhow to fix a water leak.  Mine is an '05 Tvan and the water pump is a shurflo unit which is mounted on the right hand wall of the kitchen compartment.  It then has clear hose with wire spiralling through it (about 10mm inside dia) it then goes across the back wall of the compartment up the corner and into an ally channel, along with the power for the water on/off button. 

The ally channel pivots from this rear corner and is about 670mm long.  The pipe exits the channel and is now about 500mm long and then goes into a larger pipe (app 13mm) and then makes a right turn via a right elbow into the rear end of the stove.  It is then 13mm black pipe and goes through to the underside of the sink where there is another right elbow and then a short section of pipe before going into the back of the whale tap.

On mine, where the clear pipe exits the channel it was split and leaking, obviously from the folding when pulling the kitchen in and out.

Is this the normal method for the plumbing to take?

Have the later models changed to something different?Has anybody come up with a different method of plumbing?

Could I replace the clear wire reinforced pipe with the food grade clear pipe available from Mitre 10, it is labelled to have a pressure rating of 35psi, the shurflo pump is 30psi output.  This pipe is a bit more flexible than what is currently there.

Any ideas.

Mick

G'day all.  Just wondering if anybody has removed the rear tent from the hatch of their Tvan.  From my initial observation while we were using it a couple of weeks ago, is that it appears to be held on with the 'c' clips over the canvas onto the lip of the hatch.

Probably pretty easy to take off, but how difficult is it to get it back on in the right place so the tent doesn't sag in all the wrong places.

Any suggestions!!

Mick

My '05 Tvan I just recently purchased has some self made curtains fitted.  We are replacing the curtains, have already bought the material and ready to go.  These ones have the hook side of velcro sewn to the back of them and then they stick to the felt type wall material around the window rubber.  They are in 2 halves, vertically split, with another small piece of velcro fixed to the edge to hold the curtain in the open position.  I am just a bit worried with a lot of pulling the velcro on an off it will ruin the wall covering.

Would somebody with the factory curtains fitted be kind enough to post a picture of them and tell me how they are fitted please. 

Thanks

Mick.

Hi there I'm just wondering what the Tvan side windows are made from.  I have some light scratching I would like to polish out if anybody has any suggestions on what to use for this, and if anyone has successfully done it.

Thanks

Mick

Just thought I'd say g'day to you all. I just bought myself an '05 Tvan whilst doing a bit of a road trip with my wife.

Well after having to buy all the necessary bedding amd extras, as this was not a planned purchase  (we had been looking at them though)  After picking it up we have been from Yarrawonga through the Grampians down to Portland, withstood 100kph overnight winds there .....  Done the great ocean road through to Geelong, up to Ballarat for a few days and then on to Echuca where I sit typing this.

So it was in boots and all so to speak, no waiting to use it 

Love the Tvan, no doubt I'll have some questions about it though.

Mick