Track Trailer Forum

I have just returned from a trip and on the way back at a lunch stop I noticed that the fridge in the front box wasn't working. Checking inside I found that there was no power anywhere, there was no light on the main 12v override switch and no 12v lights or the water pump had any power.

I called Track (from Nth Qld at the timne) and though they were helpful, we couldn't diagnose the problem. I checked the 2 fuses on the AGM batteries and they were fine. The batteries themselves were showing 12.6v so they seemed fine too. I also have a battery test unit and that showed both batteries to be 100% fine.

So we came home with no power, which wasn't a deal breaker because I could run the fridge in the car using my Bluetti EB70 for power. Having no lights was inconvenient but we got by with a couple of AAA battery powered LEDs.

Hooking in to power at a caravan park on the way didn't help. The Projecta charger just brought up an error message. The van has a 1240 Redarc for solar and charge from thge car but that was just flashing too, with no power going in to the batteries. The car wasn't providing any charge while on the road either.

Interestingly, a couple of days prior to this, and after being off grid for 48 hours, the fridge in the Tvan wouldn't run. It would start and stop immediately so I used the Bluetti to keep it going. I checked the voltage at the merit plug in the front box and it was 125v so the issue wasn't with the fridge cutting out due to low battery voltage.  The next day, after a few hours on the road, it all worked again. We were off grid for another 24 hours with no problem running the fridge from the van batteries.

Some related info: 5YO Firetail, twin AGMs (originals), 1240Redarc BCDC, 1225 Projecta charger. 

I can't get the van to Track or an auto elec for a few weeks so I may try checking it out but the question is where to begin. Has anyone got any suggestions as to what might be the problem ?

Went to Outback HQ tonight to check out the new T4. Nice looking unit with some gadgetry like electrically operated pop up roof and awning, operated from inside or via an app on your phone. A bit more space than the Topaz with a table tucked away under the bed, good size drawers and a small porta loo in the bottom drawer for night time visits. It stays in the draw for operational purposes but you wouldn't want to open the wrong drawer in the middle of the night. 

Same type of ensuite pod on the rear and the outdoor kitchen is the Tvan premium design. The optional internal ensuite is just inside the entry door and the van is modular in that you can add more drawers, a wardrobe etc depending on needs. Nicely finished of course and very smart looking.

It runs up to 4 batteries with a choice of AGM, Lithium or Lead Crystal, an inverter up to 2000W, up to 260L ow water inc a 40L grey water tank. Normal config would be 2x75L plus grey. Front storage box takes a generator and the outdoor fridge is 40L. Internal is 130L

There's an option for the east/west or north/south bed, same as the Topaz. With the E/W you can have seating for 6. If it's N/S it goes down to 4. Add an extra set of drawers and you can sit 3.

I love the quick awning I installed using the Trek Tech brackets but on the Firetail the width is 3m so there's a lot of unsupported canvas which collects rain and forms a large pool in the middle, stretching things a bit much. So I looked at adding another pole in the centre and found that my large annex pole (for the large Track supplied canvas awning) does the job perfectly. I drilled a hole in the bar on the quick awning, the same as the 2 end poles use and the other end fits in to the bar on the Tvan with it's rubber stopper squeezing in between the channels making a nice snug fit. The only issue now is to find something to attach to the centre bar to lift the roof a bit so the water drains easily. I've used an ice cream, container in the pics below but will work on something a bit classier.

Can anyone with the Trek Tech awning brackets for a Mk4 tell me how the front pole is bolted in to the front box ? I see the bolt and plate it mounts to but can't see how far down the box it goes and whether it bolts through the fridge box or the side panel.

We've got the dual batteries and larger Redarc 1240 charger in the Tvan which has an Anderson plug on the outside where the portable solar panels go. These are plugged in without a controller because that plug leads to the Redarc before the batteries. The question is, can I use that as a 12v power source for external use, since it doesn't run directly from the battery.

The alternative is to use the Merit plug close to that spot which would be fine but I prefer Anderson connectors if possible

More on Tvan heaters....has anyone looked at a Truma gas heater instead of the diesel heaters ? The new Truma Vario looks the goods for a Tvan.

https://www.truma.com/int/en/products/truma-heater/truma-varioheat-eco.html

For those not on the Tvan Facebook site, here's a pic of a simple modification to redirect water from the roof away from the kitchen side of the van.

I used some C section plastic moulding from Bunnings, as they had no aluminium the right size (16x16) in stock. It was secured with Roof and Gutter silicone. The idea is that water from the roof runs out the opposite side from the stove due to the slope of the gutter. I'm off to Tallarook for a few days camping this week and we have a forecast of some rain so it should get a test run. Thanks to Baron for the idea at the gathering.

The only bit about setting up that I find a bit time consuming is levelling the deck. I try not to be too fussy but I like it level all the same. If we are only doing a day or two, I don't always worry about putting in the front set but when I do, I can't seem to get them hard on the ground. The pins aren't in the right spot most of the time and it's hard to adjust the height, unlike the middle and back legs which are easy because you can lift the deck there. I think you can use the jockey wheel to lower the front a bit, then put the front legs in and raise the wheel again. But do you do that before you open the floor completely or do you do the other legs, then use the jockey wheel?

I'd be interested to know what people have found to be the best system.

Our new Tvan has done about 5k on the current trip and quite a bit on dusty roads. The hitch is making a load creaking noise now which seems to be from the main body section. Is this normal and should it need grease or servicing this early in its life ?

Sometimes when we are doing an over night stop and want to stay hitched up, I need to raise the rear of the car to get the van level, so we don't sleep downhill. It puts an upward load on the locking plate of the hitch and I'm wondering if that's or ok or should be avoided.

Our first big trip in the new Firetail and we are very happy with how it's going. One issue I have is condensation in the front right hand box. There's none in the left with the fridge but even on a mildly chilly night, there is a build up on the underside of the roof and also the storage shelf I had put in as an option. I'm thinking I might line both with some foam, as is done in the left hand side for the fridge unless there's a better solution.

I also getting it on the inside of the fibreglass roof and would have added a lining to that if I'd been made aware it was an option. I've got lining over the bed so that's all good.

Otherwise, it's a bloody great trailer ! 😋

I'm looking at ways of taking a second spare tyre for the car, not the Tvan, but thinking it could be mounted on top of the existing Tvan spare on the front boot. I'm not sure whether to take a full wheel or just a carcass, which would be lighter. Any thoughts or suggestions ? (The Tvan and car wheels are not matched, hence the reason for a second spare for the car)

hi all, we picked up our new Firetail this week (very excited) and am thinking I'll add another piece of checker plate to the underside of the rear deck section so it is easier to step on when folded up. I'm thinking of aluminium 'propeller' plate riveted in to the existing holes on the support rails which is available in 1.6 or 3mm.  I'm not sure of the thickness of the existing plate.

Any thoughts or ideas on whether it's necessary or not also appreciated.

With our new Firetail due in a few days, I'm wondering what (if anything) people use as a floor in the ensuite tent. I'm thinking a pack of those rubber squares which fit together like a jigsaw from Bunnings or some flooring like we have under our caravan awning which is open open weave type and would let the water thorough more easily.

Sorry for the new thread and I have done a lot of reading through previous posts which can be very informative but also somewhat confusing for a novice in solar power set ups like me. 

I have Tvan due next month and it will run a fridge/freezer in the front box so I want as much solar input as possible and I have ordered the dual battery Track set up with the updated 25amp charger.

I am looking at the option of the additional 40amp redarc DCDC being fitted at Track with an dedicated Anderson plug near the 240 input which would allow me to hook up unregulated solar panels. (Not sure what size I'd need to get)

The tug (2015 Pajero) has two batteries fitted with a Redarc controller and I run a fridge in there as well, from the aux battery.  The power to the Anderson plug at the rear of the tug is from the starter battery, not the aux battery.

So the options for solar charging the Tvan batteries are:
1. use the existing Anderson plug at the front and connect regulated solar panels with the disadvantage that the regulator is a long way from the battery
2. get the 40 AMP regulator fitted and hook unregulated panels to that. Extra cost is an issue but not a deal breaker if there's a big advantage to this set up ($760)

Any suggestions/comments appreciated. Am I on the right path with option 2 ?

We are about to take delivery of our new Firetail and I'm looking at options for hot water showering. Iv'e looked at the Aquacube logic and also the digital model. The other option is the Hottap unit from Joolca which ticks a lot of the boxes. (https://www.joolca.com.au/)

I'm after one which does the following:
Must be able to be turned on and off using the shower head.
Can be hooked up to a gas bottle and is not restricted to using just those disposable propane canisters.
Space is always an issue so the more compact, the better.

I've also got a Kelly Kettle so I can boil up water quickly and draw it from a bucket using a cheap 12v pump and shower head but we won't always be able to use that so I'd like the option of a gas fired unit as well.

If anyone has 'been there, done that' I'd appreciate your thoughts as to what is the best set up.