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Messages - peter_mcc

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1
For Sale or Wanted / Re: WTB tvan side doors
« on: January 31, 2021, 05:00:08 PM »
I don't have any but I think you need to mention what model/year Tvan you have as they have changed a bit over time.

2
Tvan Tvan / Re: changing bushes at rear of tvan trailing arms
« on: January 20, 2021, 06:01:39 PM »
I changed the arms in the field a number of years ago (I hire Tvans, it was abuse from the hirer not Track's fault).

I'd recommend:
- jacking up & putting the chassis on stands to hold the weight
- put a jack under the axle (at the back) and removing the wheel
- remove the shock absorber
- slowly lower the jack and the spring will come out
- change bushes

From memory no one part was super heavy but it's kinda awkward getting it all back together.

You'll need to do a wheel alignment afterwards as well.

3
We did something like that with our Mk4. We tee'd into the waterpipe in the drivers side wheel well and bought a pipe up to the front box where we put a kitchen stop-cock valve with a click hose fitting. We then hang the Joolca on the front box door and connect the gas using the kitchen gas hose (we added the same quick release coupling to the Joolca).

I would suggest protecting the pipe somehow - I ran mine inside an aluminium extrusion I had lying around. If it goes from the wheel well along the outside of the chassis then along under the front box it will get pelted with stones (my extrusion is a bit battered...).

The whole thing fits into a Front Runner box which is a perfect fit into our front box.

Another tip is to get some cheap click hose fittings and fill the ends with glue (we used hot-melt glue because it was easy). When we are finished we cap off the Joolca inlet/outlet which stops the water dripping out later on. We also join the two ends of the inlet hose together using a coupler and use a coupler/another blocked fitting for the hot water spray. The aim is to reduce the amount of water the system leaks when it's not being used.

4
Electrical and Wiring / Re: dry joints
« on: January 08, 2021, 09:41:20 AM »
A friend had a problem with their Mk5 not charging from solar or the car (240V was ok). Their batteries went flat every time they went away for the weekend. The dealer checked it out and blamed their fridge for high power consumption - something that was unrelated to the real issue (not charging from the car or solar).

I spent hours looking at it. It would charge for 30 seconds from the car (according to the Victron) then the charge current would drop to zero and the charger would say the battery was full.

The problem turned out to be a faulty circuit breaker between the DC-DC charger and the battery - after a few seconds of charging it would go high-resistance (not open circuit) and drop about 1.5V. This lead the charger to think the battery was full and stop charging.

People have given other suggestions - follow them up as well. If you have the same problem as my friends you will see the DC-DC charger charging for a few seconds before it thinks the battery is full and it stops. I can't remember which circuit breaker it was in the panel - Track Trailer could probably help out - but you could check the voltage drop across it when it should be charging (ie across the terminals). The voltage drop should be close to zero.

I'm happy to chat or take a look if that helps - I'm on the lower north shore in Sydney.

5
For Sale or Wanted / Re: LED WATER TANK INDICATORS /GUAGE
« on: November 03, 2020, 10:47:42 PM »
Jaycar or Altronics probably have it too

6
Tvan Tvan / Re: Large engel fridge in the front boot !
« on: October 05, 2020, 01:53:37 PM »
I've got a 50l Trailblazer fridge in mine - I had to lower the tray a bit and raise the pantry. Both are easy to do if you have a nutsert tool - there is at least 10mm space between the seal and the slide/pantry.

8
For Sale or Wanted / 2014 Mk3 for sale - Sydney
« on: September 15, 2020, 08:09:31 PM »
Sept 2014 Track Trailer Tvan. It was a Tanami model but has lots of upgrades from other models.

It has been hired out during it's life but is in good condition - it has always been well maintained. There are no holes in the canvas. The biggest issue is some stone chipping on the front.

There is a 2.5x2.5m awning over the kitchen that is almost brand new - I'll include an older one for spare parts.

A "Stone Stomper" net is included - this goes between the Tvan & car to stop rocks flying up (damaging either the Tvan or bouncing back and smashing the rear window of the car).

Tyres are in good condition - the spare is brand new. Also has a rim based tyre pressure monitoring system (all 3 wheels) and a Redarc TowPro installed.

Roof has a 60W solar panel - this has always been enough to power the lights, water pump and radio. It is protected with a low voltage cutout so it cuts out at 50% to protect it.

It has a new foam mattress. I'll include some spare deck legs.

Pickup from Artarmon, Sydney.

$37,500

on Gumtree - https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/artarmon/camper-trailers/track-trailer-mk3-tvan-sept-2014-build/1256290616

9
Tvan Tvan / Re: What is the 105ah Full River voltage when full...
« on: July 24, 2020, 10:21:44 AM »
According to the install/operation manual it should have an open circuit voltage of 12.83V  at 100% charge (rested for at least 8hrs after charging - see p14 on testing)

SOC charge table is on P19 of https://resources.fullriverbattery.com/fullriver-battery/external-media/manuals/manual-batteries.pdf

The table says 12.53V would be between 70% (12.47V) & 80% (12.60V) charged.

State of Charge   Open Circuit Voltage (O.C.V.)
100%  12.83
90%   12.72
80%   12.60
70%   12.47
60%   12.34
50%   12.20
40%   12.06
30%   11.91
20%   11.76
10%   11.61

10
Electrical and Wiring / Re: Obscure Charging Fault
« on: June 22, 2020, 06:17:48 PM »
Had a similar thing happen with a friends Mk5 - the circuit breaker between the charger and the battery was faulty. It would charge at 20A for 10 seconds then go high resistance, tricking the charger into thinking that the battery was charged.

11
Tvan Tvan / Re: Carry an outboard motor
« on: May 12, 2020, 11:18:48 AM »
I can't help with putting an outboard motor there but we have an ISI rack with 4 push bikes that would weigh more than your outboard. My suggestion would be to get a post made up and put it on the drawbar. From talking with ISI and my own experience I would recommend using square hollow sections for the base - I used 6mm plate and it wobbles a bit more than I expected.

12
Tvan Tvan / Re: Mk4 not charging batteries
« on: April 06, 2020, 01:38:03 PM »
Check what voltage reading you have across each of the circuit breakers inside the ICE - I helped fault-find a friend's DC charging problems and it turned out to be a faulty circuit breaker on the charger output. His one would charge for 20 seconds then stop - the circuit breaker would heat up and sit in a state where it dropped a couple of volts across it, making the charger think the battery was full.

13
Electrical and Wiring / Re: Solar panel no voltage
« on: March 09, 2020, 07:35:57 AM »
Don't guess - Google it! Chucking "10A10 diode" in will give you some matches.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/10A10-T?qs=%252BtLcN0raKGV1HP7oOwMisg%3D%3D

Datasheet:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/345/10a05-10a10-1702516.pdf

Looks like a standard diode but the specs seems kinda odd to me - it doesn't need to be rated at 1000V, at least not for what you're doing with it.

If you're near a Jaycar or Altronics something like this should work:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/mbr20100ct-schottky-100v-20a/p/ZR1039
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/z0065-stps1545f-40v-15a-schottky-diode/

14
Tvan Tvan / Re: MKI and MKll rear tank inline water pump.
« on: March 01, 2020, 04:12:48 PM »
I know it's a different pump but on our Mk3 the problem was the pressure switch got jammed up with dust, making it think it was always at max pressure and so should stop.

15
Topaz Topaz / Re: Changing tyre size to 265/65/R17?
« on: February 25, 2020, 02:05:16 PM »
Prado wheels are fairly cheap second hand. Often they come with nuts as well.

I'm a Tvan guy - on the Tvan the standard 16" tyres are about the same diameter as 265/70R17 - the 265/65R17's are a bit small (776mm vs 803mm - almost 30mm less diameter or 15mm ground clearance) -  and make the hatch harder to open because it hits the ground early. If you have ground clearance issues perhaps look into slightly bigger tyres. My understanding is 265/70R17's will fit most Prado's but some research on PradoPoint would probably get you a definitive answer.

Prado studs are M12 and the alloy wheels need special (non-steel wheel) nuts - something to keep in mind as well. M12 studs are hard to find so I'd recommend carrying some spares.

The other issue might be axle/wheel offset to make sure they don't hit the guards at full compression.

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