Track Trailer Forum

Hi, can you please advise how much needed the kit costs?
Tony.

We upgraded the mattress to an inner spring and the std mattress rolled up and sealed into the plastic bag, have just moved house and want to move the foam mattress on as we have no need for it. email us with an offer if interested. Rebecca & Tony

Craig, thanks for the reply. To look at the wheels / tyres on the van sitting on the ground you would not know it had that much toe-out.  Yes the arms are heavy and awkward to work with although once you work out how to dismantle the assembly it is pretty easy going. I have had a good look over them and measured and compared lengths and angles against each other, nothing appears bent or different although without spec' measurements it is hard to tell though. I know from our trips the van has not been in any situation that would have bent the arms or axle back to cause that sort of toe out. I tried slackening off the cross arm (axle) nut to the end of the thread so the nylock was just on the thread & gave the suspension a good workout up and down several times to settle it into position. In theory this should have seen the axle pushed out and forward thus increasing toe in. I got 2mm less toe out from that exercise. The only time I got close was to remove the rear rubbers and cup washers from the trailing arms and put them to the front and tighten it all back up, 80mm on the cross arm rubbers and with the trailing arms pulled up against the chassis mounts I had 10mm toe in. With one washer & rubber put back on the rear of one trailing arm and the other with out a rubber I had 3mm toe in. That was 27mm removed from the system to get the 3mm toe in. In theory, that suggests I need to remove 12 - 13 mm from each side to balance the whole lot out evenly. I'll go back and have another go at measuring and adjusting, each time making sure to give the arms a good work out through their mounts after the adjustment to be sure they are sitting in the right position before measuring and adjusting. thanks..

After having a set of tyres scrub out on the inside I made up the required safety stands and I have followed the instructions for checking wheel alignment on my tvan and found it to be 11mm toe OUT (14mm out from spec based on 3mm toe in).
No amount of tightening the trailing arm nut or loosening the cross arm nut brings it any where near the 3mm toe IN. Any ideas how to rectify this?  Thanks Tony

Initally we hated the AT35 as compared to the Tregg that was on out old camper trailer. The AT35 was TOO precise a fit with sharp square laser cut corners that saw the poly bush jam every time no matter how well you tried to alighn it.

I ground all the edges of the AT35 receiver so they were a nice smooth 5mm radius and now it is a breeze to couple from any angle.

Tony

Quote from: The Hueys on May 06, 2012, 08:30:25 PM
The DO35 is light years ahead in ease of coupling and uncoupling when compared to the AT35 but the maintenance is higher, it must be kept clean and lubricated to work well. The newer model should alleviate much of this but they still need more than an AT35. You also may need to get the jockey wheel modified as the coupling now has to go up and over the pin rather than into so you need a couple of extra inches of travel. If your jockey wheel does not have enough it is a case of getting the tube welds cut of the swivel mechanism and having it welded back on at a more suitable height.

All that said I'm personally sticking with my AT35 and I'm in the process of changing both my other trailers to it as well, but it is just a personal choice as with all our years of using them Kathi and I have gotten the operation down to a fine art and see no need to change.

Seems the REMIS hatch might have a design fault, our TVan is a 2008 version and the front hatch has been getting a lot of condenstaion inbetween the layers, when you lift the hatch up the water drains out frm arond the RHS hinge - the layers have seperated there. Trak advised it is a known fault but no waranty available as it is past its 12 months, they quoted $260 for a complete hatch - cant buy just the lid. They didn't say anything about a new model comming out later in the year. You would think a known faulty product would have more than just warranty to replace it. Perhaps if one flew apart on the road and hit a car behind or a motorcyclist in the face and they subsequently crashed and died then the Coroner might reccomend a safety recall to have them replaced - Mmmmm.

I also noticed that the hatches' plastic frame on the roof is powdering up - wonder how long these things are intended to last?
Tony

Quote from: tvantoy on April 30, 2012, 09:40:50 PM
Just a note to say that I have lost the front clear hatch cover, my wife and i both do the check thing before we close up. It may be a fault with the two halves coming unglued as it is a clean brake on the join and the only other thing as a bird may of hit it, dont know but it is all gone.
  The problem I have is that I was able to get a cover but no locking latch and they all tell me now that the only way is to buy the whole hatch complete $281 00. Good start as the Tvan is 2 months old.

       Please has anyone had the same problem let me know.

Thanks
Bob