Track Trailer Forum

Peter we did Cape Yorke a few years ago... not with our Topaz, but the Topaz is built for that kind of adventure. It's too big and heavy for the OTT, but the Development Road etc shouldn't be any kind of problem. Corrugations, lumps and bumps are the main problem. Make sure your wheel bearings, suspension bushes and shocks are good before you go.
Cheers
Andrew

I have an ADCO Camper Trailer Cover 12-14' which fits nicely. It covers the full length of the TVan

Andrew

Sounds good.

I'd stick with a known brand with lithium... for safety reasons. Renogy seems to have a good reputation. I have Enerdrive in our Trakmaster and as an auxiliary in the car. I'm happy with them.

It's worth noting that the lithium battery voltage is pretty constant until the battery's about flat, so you can't use voltage to tell % full. You need some way of monitoring battery SOC. Usually via a shunt or by having a bluetooth battery. I have a shunt based monitor in the caravan and a bluetooth battery in the car. Both work well.

Cheers
Andrew

Hi Cam,

I can't give you much good news, but perhaps a little. I had a similar problem a few years ago with my Topaz 2. The AGM betteries, which were only a couple of years old, ran down after I unintentionally left the main radio and TV switch on, meaning that standby power was being consumed. That was enough to run the batteries down over about 7 weeks while I was overseas. That length of time is otherwise fine to go without a charge with AGMs (I never just leave a smart charger on all the time... that can also kill batteries).

When I discovered the problem, the batteries were at 9 volts. Same problem as you, the Projecta charger wouldn't start. I had access to a non smart charger and used that. It got voltage and life into the batteries and then the Projecta would work. I then ran the recondition feature and all seemed good. Trouble was that the battery capacity was only about half what it previous was.

If you can get a basic non smart charger, it may get you going short term. If you can't do that, I'd try jumper leads from the car straight to the batteries. It may work too.

I wouldn't use existing chargers on lithium batteries. The charge rates just aren't taylored to lithium needs which are very specific. Even on a short term basis it could be very risky... not just for the life of the batteries, but for the risk of fire.

Good luck
Andrew

I love mine too. I've had it around 3 years. I do get caught by the battery charge sometimes though. If I haven't used it for some months, i needs a re-charge before it'll go.

Cheers
Andrew

I too suspected the cross joints and re-sealed them. Unfortunately it didn't work for me. I hope it does for you.

The real problem evaded me for so long because I always looked at the roof when the awning was packed up. It had me tricked, and I must say TT didn't pick it up at all. While the joint along the awning side of the roof looked OK with the awning in, a hairline crack opened up ever so slightly when the awning was out. The twisting effect on the side of the roof where the awning is mounted put stress on the roof seal. Only a very small movement, but enough to allow water in when the awning was out. Once identified, all fixed.

Cheers
Andrew

It's very important that flexible panels aren't glued down, or they're likely to quickly destroy themselves as they expand and contract at a different rate to what they're glued to.

If you're using roofing tape glsgls, I'm guessing it'll cover the core flute sides, stopping any ventilation under the panels. Just something to bare in mind.

Cheers
Andrew

Glass solar panels are strong and if well installed should be able to withstand corrugations. They are heavier than flexible panels though, so if weight is an issue, probably flexible is the way to go. Heat build up and expansion from heat (if glued to the roof) can be problems for flexible panels.

Here's a good website discussion that should help: https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t63634551/fixing-flexible-solar-panels-to-van-roof/

You've mentioned putting some sort of core flute under the panels and that's well covered in the website discussion. Something like Sunlite Twinwall from Bunnings would do the job. That will allow some cooling and minimise the heat being passed through the Topaz roof inside. It can be glued to the roof, but the fixing suggested in the greynomads discussion is advisable for the panel itself to allow expansion and contraction without killing it. That's what I did on my Topaz 2 and it worked well.

The panels are mounted to the roof, on top of the Sunlite by bolts that are fixed to the roof. I made these up by using short lengths of aluminium strip and mounting bolts through them. I glued and riveted the aluminium to the the roof so the bolts could pass through the the mounting holes in the panels. The bolts need to be smaller diameter than the hole in the panel. Use washers and nyloc nuts so they don't have to be tightly screwed down. The panels need to be allowed to expand/contract as they heat up and cool down. You'll need to put something on the leading edge of the panels to stop wind getting under them when travelling at speed. I used aluminium channel.

Hope that helps
Andrew

I had a lot of trouble with our Topaz 2 leaking from new. Had it back to TT a couple of times. They ended up sealing the ceiling to stop it dripping, but of course that didn't solve the real issue. It only slowed the water coming through.

Eventually I identifed that the seal around the perimiter of the roof was too thin in places and had some tiny splits along the joints. It was worse when the awning was extended as it opened the split ever so slightly.

To fix the problem, I spent time scraping the sealant away where I could, and thoroughly cleaning the remaining sealant with metho which partially disolves the surface of the sealant and primes it well for another layer to be applied on it. To apply new sealant, you need to ensure it's applied thick enough. On one side of the seal there's a raised edge which helps give some thickness. On the other side, I used aluminium strips about 2.5mm thick, to give me a straight edge, as well as a gauge to give enough thickness for the sealant, which i spread with a scraper blade. Sikaflex marine sealant was what I used and I haven't had any problems since.

I hope it helps
Cheers
Andrew

It's a big saving and is certainly attractive. I used to insure with Club 4x4, and they were cheap at first, but had huge increases each year even though I never made any claims. I started reading how difficult they were to make a claim with. Then more personal experience just confirmed what I read. In our FWD club, there are members who've had accidents on and off road. RACV has always been great to deal with when making claims. On the other hand Club 4x4 was a battle all the way. I'm sticking with RACV even though I know I could save some hard earned cash.

Not sure which Topaz you have, but I used to have a Topaz II. It has a tempering valve mounted behind the covers at the back of where the toilet is stored. Probably all Topaz's have it. The tempering valve mixes cold water with the hot to stop scalding hot water coming out the tap. There are fine screens on the inlets into the valve. I had to clean mine occasionally to restore water pressure.

Andrew

On the mark 5, the isolator is only to cut-off power to lights, power outlets etc. It doesn't cut-off power sources from solar and the car. I imaging the cut-off in the mark 3 is similarly wired.

Andrew

It all depends on which aircon you have Mark. I have the cooling only aircon which TT fitted to the Topaz for many years, although I believe in recent times they've started fitting the reverse cycle unit which has a higher output.

The cooling only aircon runs without any problems on my 2kva Yamaha generator, but you would need a bigger generator if you have the reverse cycle aircon, as it draws more power. I've heard the new 2.4kva Honda will handle the higher draw of the reverse cycle aircon.

Andrew

Sorry to hear about the mishap Norm. Not sure what glue was used, but it may well be Sikaflex marine. If it is, metho will help soften it up and hopefully allow a scraper blade to be pushed in to separate things. I'm sure it'll still a difficult task and will need lots of patience.
Cheers
Andrew

Great job. Very impressive.