Track Trailer Forum

Air Deflector on the early series 2 vans had no way of draining and the water builds up and flows over the sides
If the van is not level the water ends up over the stove and storage locker which we use as a pantry
To create a drain I have drilled 3x6 mm holes and slotted them to create a drain
The red body stiffer is aluminium so should not create a corrosion issue
Another tick in the to do list

The front box seals have been completed and tested
The door seal have had a good soaking and all looks great
The top of all the door seals are dry and no leaking inside around the door areas
Found a leak in the left hand front corner of the box
This is tracking down the fridge door pressings and only shows as a slow leak at the bottom of the box
Letting the door dry out and will have a look on the week end at sealing the pressing to stop the final water leak
I think the sealant may be deteriorating over time and needs attention to keep the box dry

Gryphen
Looks like mods to get  the bigger battery to fit.
Take the easy way and replace with the same.
Better to add solar to resolve the battery power usage issue.
I have 300 watts of solar to run two fridges and lights etc.
If you can have roof solar to charge the battery while in storage would be great.

Cheers Ausc

Linda,
New van would be best to contact graham and organise for the van to be checked and fixed through local auto electrician. Track should cover that as it looks like a fopar at the factory and not been quality checked before delivery.
Good work on delving into the wiring and finding the loose earth.

Linda
The BCDC you have is the new version with dual input and the solar should run all the time
The BCDC unit has 7 leds on the  panel which indicate the status
I have copied page 3 & 4 of the BCDC manual to show the meaning of the 7 led lights
Harry has copied the error code on page 6 of the manual
Reading the led lights from right to left
A,B,C,LI are just the battery type and the charge voltage set
One of these lights should display, my guess would be A for a AGM battery
Next you have the Solar, Vehicle and stage led lights
The solar light should be on when charging from the solar panels
The vehicle light should also light up when you connect to the Anderson plug
Stage should show the status of the BCDC in charging the battery
Look at the stage led and check what the flash code is.
Not all these systems have fuses so if not working check the fuses
You could have a fuse blown which will note allow any input
In the error mode all the leds will flash and show a fault code as per the page 6 table
You say you have one green light on which led is showing as it may be the voltage only
Ausc

Linda can you copy the manual where it explains the BCDC operation and post it up. The BCDC system was developed for under bonnet installs. When you turn the ignition key you power the solenoid and the solar is isolated so engine only charge. As soon as you turn off the ignition then the solenoid is deactivated and solar charging starts again. Now converting to the Topaz the solenoid system needs to be powered and control the Topaz solar or vehicle charging. This is the bit that needs to be worked out how Track Trailer has wired the solenoid and any instructions on how to control solar over Anderson plug. You will not see solar input until the solenoid is switched over. Where is your solar panels installed. Do you have them remote or roof mounted. Do you have a Redarc battery management system installed or solar controller. Take some pictures so we can see what your seeing will help a lot.

Linda
Have you read the manual as the 1240 bcdc are normally wired with a solenoid
The solenoid is to stop solar input if your charging with the vehicle or power
I was going to install one in my Topaz and discussed the wiring with the auto electrician
Plan was to wire the solenoid to the Anderson plug so when connected to the vehicle the solar is locked out
As soon as you disconnect the plug then the solenoid would swap to solar input
The question is how has Track Trailer wired your solenoid for the solar input
Do you have a solar switch which needs setting to allow the solar input

Gryphen
Good Chance that will fit but best to undo the two screws and slide the battery cover towards the front of the van.
Measure the battery clearance in the tray
You can undo the battery clamps and slide them apart by 25mm each and check for fit
Push the battery back and ensure you have the clearance to fit bigger battery
Just to be safe measure you existing battery and compare the size with the battery you intend to fit

Just from memory I think it could be a goer

Cheers Ausc

Gryphen
Fullriver is the brand of battery
Fullriver DC105-12B Deep Cycle 12V
They are a AGM battery and good value for money

I had the same battery in my camper trailer and its 8 years old and still going stong
The battery runs a 60 litre engel and LED lights with solar input all the time
With out going to Lithium and a whole new charge system and setup AGM are well proven

Cheers Ausc

The last picture showing the front door seal with the roof extention and door seal under

Another issue also was exposed when I removed the stone guard
The top left nutsert is loose and not retained
the original hole looks over size and has let go

Will have to chase up a solution to repair this also

More details and pictures

The font box seals have been an on going issue so having another go at solving the problem

I have added a Raven door seal to the front and side doors
They are sealed and riveted to the doors


Then a 10x10x3mm and angle forms the roof extension on the front door to force the water over the door seal
The side door has a 20x20x1.6 tee bar to for a channel to keep the water away from the fridge door in bad weather
With the annex walls fitted the angle to attach the canvas forces the water over the door and is a real pain
The tee bar also forms a weather seal over the side door as well

The logic is to stop water being able to enter the top of the door seal
the water is now kept away from the top seals
Time will tell if this is a solution but looks logical

Dicko
Larger seals added and sealed as the water would run behind the seal and into the van
I think this is all I can do so now for extension and seal to keep the water away from seal

Cheers Ausc

Front box seals where replaced as well but still leaks
I have double check and can not find a  leak other than past the seals
I will keep you posted but I think the seals are a design flaw and under heavy rain the water gets in
Once the water reaches the seal there is no way to run past with out going into the van
Only a theory but time will till

Cheers Aus

Tiny House has not seen much love due to health issues
The stress related issues are still on going but life may have finally turn the corner and more positive news in the future
The front box issue still lives but has imporved by a huge margin
The next stage is to install the weather strips and extensions to force the water over the door seals
Finish all the little project that have been started and go camping
Looking forward to continuing the dream of taking Tiny House around Aus which has been the long term goal
This is a huge turn around from 3 months ago when we considered to sell
Let the dream live

Ausc