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Tvan Tvan / Tracking a Down Minor Leak
« Last post by mal1958 on July 20, 2018, 03:02:27 PM »

I apologise for a long post, but I am trying to understand the construction of my TVan to try and track down a minor leak.

I have a Mk3 TVan built Dec 2014.

I have evidence of a minor leak on the right hand side front corner of the bed.    (Non Kitchen side).

A close inspection inside with a bright light shows traces where water may have come out of two or three rivets where the dark grey metal edge is riveted into the white side panel.

Since this is the bottom of the wall and above the seam where the wall meets the floor, it is not obvious where the water may be coming from.

Now I know that when our Tvan was built, that there was a leak in the exterior sidemarker light.   

So I did a check at the back (behind the speaker) of the exterior sidemarker light and I can see plenty of goo surrounding the wire.  I also have some polyester batting stuffed behind the speaker and it is dry with no evidence of ever being wet. 

What I cannot see is the seal behind the exterior sidemarker light where it enters the outer skin.

Now I understand that the outer metal skin is separated from the inner metal skin by foam.

So my first questions are,

1) Could water run down between the inner and outer metal skins and the foam, or are the metal side panels sandwiched together forming a continuous barrier to water ?

2) If water could run down, then I would need to take the exterior sidemarker light off and reseal behind it.    Does anybody have any clues on how the exterior sidemarker lights come off ?    Mine are labelled with what looks like ORO ADR45 and have had sealant pushed into them.    An internet search did not reveal any information about the sidemarker lights, so am not sure how they come apart etc.

If it is not possible for the water to come via the exterior sidemarker light, then I need to look somewhere else.

I have done an inspection with a bright light and a gentle probe on the exterior joints in the corner and along the seam between the white panels and the grey panels on both the front and the right side.    There are no obvious gaps, weak or thin patches.    I do note however, that on the side where the white panel and the grey panel meet (above the door for the side locker), that towards the back of the TVan some of the black sealant is missing.    The only issue as I see it is that this is well behind (approx 40cm) and is below where the apparent water ingress is inside.

A check on the other side shows the seal as being continuous.

While I don't think this is where the leak is, I think it is probably prudent to seal along there anyway. 

3) What is the black sealant that Track use ?

This brings me to one final area.    On the leading and trailing corners of the TVan there are the metal pieces that are coloured to show whether the Tvan is a Canning, Tanami etc.   

On both the front left and right  pieces, the center of the rivets are not sealed, where-as the centers of rivets on both back pieces are sealed with what looks like clear silicon. 

4) Is it a possibility that some of those might be leaking and the water runs down the corner and comes out at the bottom of the wall ?     

Again it is probably prudent to seal the rivet centres,

5) What is the clear sealant that track use ?

Any further clues of where to look and tips on finding the leak would be appreciated.


Topaz Topaz / Re: Topaz Hot Water pump struggling
« Last post by Harry Lissimore on July 20, 2018, 10:20:53 AM »
Hi Nomadic,

Definitely no leaks post pump.  The cold water line is simple - goes from the pump to the sink and no leaks.  Also pressure holds for hours once the pump stops for both hot and cold.  I've had the sink out and it is difficult to see anything much under it except the hot and cold pipes going from the tap to the pumps but you can't see that far.  Can't see anything to do with the HWS or pumps or anything .
I think I found the tempering valve - is it a brass T with cold water going in one side, hot water the other and the mixed hot water going out the top?  As both hot and cold are connected to the same pump, I don't think any leak in the valve could happen as both are the same pressure.

Aus - Perhaps it is the pumps.  I can't understand why it is happening to both.  I have just checked again.  Both water tanks are full. After turning the cold tap on for about 20 seconds, after turning it off the pump will run for at least 6 seconds before it stops.  Doing the same with the hot, the pump will run for on average 60 - 90 seconds before it cuts out.  I can't see any large air bubbles in the water streams to indicate air leaks in the suction side.  I'm starting to think that it's the pump valves.

I would like to get this fixed but I can live with it the way it is for a while.  Pulling the pumps out, pulling them apart and replacing the valves etc seems a big job at the moment.

I'll check the tank air vents too but water seems to bubble out of them when I'm filling the tanks. I'm not sure I can get to the vents!

Tvan Tvan / Re: swapping from AT35 to DO35
« Last post by Cruiser 105Tvan on July 19, 2018, 10:46:58 PM »
A search results in:

I have also changed from the older type universal and pin hitch to the newer drop on type.
There are different versions of the same hitch available.
The difference is in the spacing of the bolt holes in the mounting plate.
One version, the holes are closer together and actually slightly under the barrel of the hitch.
Another version has the holes further apart and directly fits to existing holes on my Mk.2.
You will have to check out the hitch you already have if you want to replace it without any other changes.
I found that the Handbrake was separate and didn't need change or alteration on my Tvan.

The Mchitch seems to be another hitch that will be easy to use as well.
It will all depend on the holes, where you mount it to the A frame, which one.

Older version - Original hitch.;sa=view;pic=129

DO 35 version - replaced original with.;sa=view;pic=353
Tvan Tvan / swapping from AT35 to DO35
« Last post by RAR110 on July 19, 2018, 09:32:29 PM »
Hi everyone

I have a MK2 with an AT35 (Quite unimpressed with this design) and have done a search on the forum.  I was surprised to not find any info on swapping to a DO35 hitch.  The DO35 is clearly preferred.  Im not too impressed about the AT35 to be honest.

So after looking at a few websites i see there are numerous options about which package to buy, which seem to mainly relate to how much of the handbake is bought.

so some advice from someone who has done a swap would be appreciated about what i need to buy, so I can assess what it will cost and determine if its worth the effort/expense in my situation.

Topaz Topaz / Re: Topaz Hot Water pump struggling
« Last post by Nomadic on July 19, 2018, 09:25:32 PM »
Just a thought.... I'd try temporarily bypassing the tempering valve to see if that makes a difference. It's just possible an internal valve is leaking hot water back into the cold water supply.


Andrew, cold water feed for the tempering valve comes from the same pump /supply as the HWS so it can’t leak  back.

In Tracks quest to keep dust out they throw a lot of sealant around the  pipes so there can be leaks in places like under the sink that won’t leak out for a long time. An unbelievable amount of goop was thrown around the pipes on mine but they left gaping gaps under the fridge unsealed (from factory).
Tvan Tvan / Re: Suspension
« Last post by Nev on July 19, 2018, 06:25:01 PM »
Has anyone else have had the carrier washers replaced because of wear?
The carrier washers are welded on each side of the long arms where the two bolts go through the carrier bushes.
Topaz Topaz / Re: Topaz Hot Water pump struggling
« Last post by HappyTraveller on July 19, 2018, 05:27:16 PM »
Just a thought.... I'd try temporarily bypassing the tempering valve to see if that makes a difference. It's just possible an internal valve is leaking hot water back into the cold water supply.

Tvan Tvan / Re: Suspension
« Last post by monktm on July 19, 2018, 10:37:56 AM »
Would have thought the shocks would have lasted longer than that
Tvan Tvan / Re: Suspension
« Last post by KnK on July 19, 2018, 09:11:18 AM »
We have have just replaced our Konis in Broome and Tvan is going in today to have the carrier plate bushes replaced, we have somewhere around 30K on the trailer. Kimberley Trailer Parts is doing ours.

Feels like a lot of work for a relatively new trailer!
Tvan Tvan / Re: Lithium Battery change
« Last post by robstevens on July 19, 2018, 07:57:09 AM »
Yes - well as I discovered, the 100Ah can be retro-fitted, once the existing padding and fillers are removed from the battery boxes. No idea why they chose a 90Ah when they were never the most common or popular size...
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