Track Trailer Forum

Luke you would have to check with the local transport mob in your state re legalities of changing track width, I always thought there was a 25mm deviation for both in or out on the track width but don’t rely on the answers given here.

5 to 10mm of clearance between shocks and tyre sidewall is plenty, you may in extreme articulation movement get a little rub on the shock body but that is not an issue. If you are running the Koni’s then it should not be an issue, if you go to say Terrain Tamer shocks then you will have a smaller clearance gap but still ok to run with it.

At the end of the day don’t stress too much re matching up the wheels, ok concept but definitely not an essential thing to do, unless you have no idea on how to think outside the box on roadside repairs.

Lots of folk spend mega dollars going through the suspension swap but I doubt that many would actually use the tugs tyres on the Tvan anyway.
Then there is the scenario of getting new tyres for the tug, putting the “old” tyres in the Tvan to great their monies worth out of the tyres, that’s where the  issues can come into play, as running old and used tyres not the best idea.

If doing remote remote travel, ensure you have at least 70% tread left on all tyres at start of trip and you’ll find you may never need those additional matched wheel combos.

Lots of folk will disagree with this as you will see by the comments that follow but that has been my experience and I have only had one flat in 40000kms of decent off road travel, that was on a 5 year old tyre that was about 50% worn and did not like a gibber rock.

Pete

Sounds like a good approach.  I guess I'm trying to solve issues before I have the stuff in front of me

Thanks William_Foster.  Both the wheels are steel so I don't need to worry about the "hub centric" issue (I hope that's right) its the size and placement of holes, offset etc. that concern me.

I have just bought a Ford Ranger and wonder if the wheels are compatible with my Tvan that is setup for Patrol wheels.  Both are 16" 6 stud wheels but are they interchangeable?

Sorry William,
  Our's is a MK4 so everything about to follow may be wrong.

The MK4's have a couple of MAXI style blade fuses in the battery box and under the guard above the wheel arch, but these are for the car charging circuit and main battery supply so if they went you'd loose everything else as well.

All of the fuse's in the ICC are the auto reset type, and yes, on the MK4 you need to remove the whole panel (sort of slides out towards the passenger side) to get access, but as these are auto reset, you should hear them chattering if there's any issues.

Regarding the pump:

• Seized.
  If the pump is seized you won't hear much, though the auto reset breaker may chatter.
  To check if it's seized, you either need to measure the current going to the pump, or remove it and try turn by hand.
• Loose connection to pump.
  If the switch is glowing, then the switch obviously has power but the pump still may not.  Not sure on the MK5, but if it's a high current switch, there will be another connector from the back of the switch to the pump, or it could be driving a relay (so more connectors to check.)
• Bad connection.
  A loose connection could also be an issue.  if there's a loose/damaged connector or frayed wire, then there could be enough current to light the LED, but not enough current to run the pump. (same for rusted contacts / terminals).
  In this situation, when starting the pump the LED may dim.
• Pressure switch.
  The pumps are also fitted with a high pressure cutoff switch.  Under normal conditions the switch is 'normally closed' which allows power to flow, but when the pressure is high the switch opens stopping the pump.
  Again, there could be a loose connection, faulty pressure switch, or faulty / jammed switch.
  The pressure switch is normally located very close to the pump discharge.
  (Electrically located between the operator switch and the power into the pump)