Additional fuse box in the Landy.

[Cracka]

Ok, I have posted this elsewhere but I'm not getting any replies, so I thought I'd try here.

I have a 2012 Landrover Defender 90.  I have a Baintech 6 way fuse box with the + and - inputs which I want to put under my 'modified' cubby box (centre console for you non Landy people  ) or under the drivers seat. The fuse box will be used just for the usual accessories, power outlets, lights etc (future proofing ) it has a 100 amp total rating.

The battery compartment in a defender is under the passenger seat, to get to the underside of the cubby box or the compartment under the driver seat I need to exit the battery compartment and travelling underneath the vehicle.

I installed a Traxide USI 160 dual battery isolator last weekend in the batt compartment with the standard Varta Batt and Optima D34m as the aux.

I was thinking of using 6 B&S cable to connect the aux batt to the fuse box as I already have some left over from the anderson plug install.  It seems each different manufacturer of cable or wiring sites show different amp ratings for cable, I'm confused.....  for example,

Narva is 140 amp based on 60% duty cycle for 5 minutes.

Tycab state 103 amps (AMP RATING: TO JASO D609 derating factors apply).

Thats all double dutch to me unfortunately, it would be nice to see it all uniform.

I don't want to limit my fuse box to 50 amps (circuit breaker) if I can use bigger, if I could find out WHAT the amp rating of the cable actually is.

Questions, do I:

1. Put an 50 amp auto reset circuit breaker in the batt compartment (would this be big enough) to protect the run to the fuse box.

OR

2. Source a 100 amp fuse/circuit breaker for this location.

Thanks

[Jim and Lyn]

Gray Cracks,
My understanding of the accepted wisdom is the fuse should blow before the wire does. I would install a fuse close to the power source which is rated below the lowest rating for 6 B&S. Realistically you could power a swag of gear with 50 amps and if you actually could draw 100 from a battery it would be flat before you could knock the froth off a coldie. I think?!
Cheers,
Jim

[peterjantvan]

My two bobs worth -

the dual battery setup should be fused with 100 amp fuses - an alternator can easily charge that into
a dead flat battery when first connected - mine is set up this way - 100amp fuse off the main battery, dual controller redarc, 100 amp fuse to the second battery - just for charging.

the fuse box should only be fused or circuit breakered with what you intend to draw
through the box at any ONE time.  I would be tempted to put in a 50amp circuit breaker
as this will easily cover - fridge running, a couple of led lamps, a spot light or two, a small invertor
say a 300 watt and a compressor possibly all at the same time.

Mine is done this way only I have a 40amp fuse - could not get to the shop for a breaker so used what I had.
No issues.
That should be fine. If by some chance you blow the circuit breaker then time to think again.

Hope this helps.

[Cracka]

G'day guys thanks for the reply, I should have updated this.  I eventually rang Tim from Traxide and asked him.  I ended up using a 50 amp auto circuit breaker near the battery and then ran the 6 B & S to the fuse box under the cubby, all done and working nicely.

I run my fridge circuit separately using an ABG-25 Low Voltage cutout from Traxide, so I can't kill the aux battery, this has its own 30 amp inline fuse and runs directly from the aux battery.

Mick