MC2 Suspension overhaul - alignment

[Slick]

Hi All,

I used the instructions very successfully over the weekend to complete an axle swap on my MKIII Murranji.  Pulled the 100sIFS\200 offset and slid in a set of s\hand "standard" Nissan offsets so now Tug & Trailer are interchangeable .

All in all a fairly straight forward exercise conducted very safely on a 4 post hoist with the assistance of two outstanding mates 

FYI - Checked alignment before swap at -5mm (just out of spec).  Now set up at -2mm with new axles (within spec).

Fitted all new rubbers\bushes along with new lock nuts ex Track Trailer (and all very reasonably priced).

Will have the 100sIFS\200 gear up on the For Sale section soon ...

Vince.

[andrew_m]

Hi Phil
Could you shoot a copy my way please?
aemorgan@bigpond.net.au
Thanks
Andrew

[Big Unit]

May I have a copy, please.
stevo.sh96@gmail.com

[MYT150]

HI,

I have set the document up on a file sharing site linked to the forum
http://www.tracktrailerforums.com/files
You will need to log in using
Username - User1
Password - user1TWO

Regards

Aidan

[aquanaught]

HI,

I have set the document up on a file sharing site linked to the forum
http://www.tracktrailerforums.com/files
You will need to log in using
Username - User1
Password - user1TWO

Regards

Aidan

Many thanks for setting up the site link and supplying the document.

Gary

Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk

[AndyRW]

I was wondering if one of the forum members could help me out with some advice on the toe-in adjustment.
I have the email from Phil with the photos and instructions.
I understand all until the last section where it shows to use a rattle gun to adjust the toe-in, if you adjust one side so that the toe-in is the correct measurement aren't you running the risk of pulling the suspension to one side only?
I know I'm missing something obvious here but for the life of me can't figure out what.

Cheers
Steve

[The Hueys]

I'm not sure in what context these instructions were written as they were done after I left (don't know what was wrong with my original ones, but without having a copy of them on hand I don't know if I missed any details ) but I would never use a rattle gun to adjust the toe other than to get the rough 80mm before making it accurate with a spanner. Calipers really should be used to get the 80mm adjustment as by setting the calipers to 80mm then you are making sure all the bushes are adjusted the same (within reasonable tolerances). Use a spanner or socket on a ratchet/breaker bar for the final adjustment

My recommendation (having done hundreds of MC2 alignments) is to use a spanner or a socket on a ratchet/breaker bar to adjust the toe and do each side the same number of flats on the nut for each measurement. If you need more toe in then tighten the trailing arms 6 flats (one full turn) both sides and then recheck the measurement (loosening the cross arms a bit can also increase toe in). If you need more toe out then tighten the cross arms 6 flats and recheck (again loosening the trailing arms can give more toe out) keep doing this in ever decreasing amounts until you are happy with the adjustment. Always try to adjust both sides by the same amount. If you don't want to count flats you can make adjustments in whole, 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 turns.

[The Hueys]

Looking through the instructions again I can see why Track would be reluctant to send these out to owners. There is no mention of the safety requirements that need to be taken into consideration when doing the job. Given the file name includes SOP I suspect it was created for the factory where safety would be covered elsewhere. None the less, rattle guns should not be used to set toe.

If anyone has a copy of the last ones I wrote could they please send me a copy to look through. They start out with photos of the types of stands that should be used and I'm pretty sure cover both Tvan and Topaz. I'll see if there are any other details that might be relevant (although the attached ones cover most).

[AndyRW]

So Craig are you saying if you adjust the cross arms and trailing arms to the 80mm tolerance there would only be slight adjustment required to the the trailing arm nuts to bring it up to spec via using the 2 flat 600mm steel rules placed on the hub stubs for confirmation?
If you PM me I can send you info I have to check out.

Cheers
Steve

[The Hueys]

Sometimes there is very little adjustment, especially when new but sometimes there can be quite a bit of adjustment required due to manufacturing variance, bush compression over time, etc. The 80mm is just there for a starting point, which in many cases will be close to the correct toe, that should get both sides even to begin with.

I've had some, like my own Tvan, that cannot be adjusted to the correct spec so you do the best you can to get it as close as possible (no different to cars really, I've done alignments on brand new GT's that I couldn't get to the correct factory specs). From memory my Tvan is running 0 toe as that is the closest I could get it.

[AndyRW]

Something I discovered yesterday when doing the alignment, if you have the second tank installed you need to use the studs at the bottom as the tank gets in the way. This requires zip tying your straight edge measures to the studs if using anything bigger than a steel rule, I was using two arms from a folding clothes line that caravanners use and improvising calipers for measuring with the good old wire clothes hanger. takes a bit of fiddling but can be done as long as you are careful.

For the record after getting all measurments to 80mm for the bolts holding the axles and swinging arms, my toe in came in at -4mm, so within specs if you add the +/- 1mm allowed.

will now wait to see if there is any difference in tyre wear to previous.

Cheers
Steve

[CJ]

Guys,
Please help me with a temporary fix.
My driver side tire is wearing on the inside edge.  Quite badly.  The passenger side is wearing evenly
I will get the balance done by an agent as I do not have sufficient jacks stands etc. to do it safely myself.
But in the meantime, knowing the inside of only one wheel is wearing so very fast, what is the quick fix?
Do I loosen or tighten the trailing arm of that wheel?
Please assist, cheers
CJ

[CJ]

Guys
Further to my post above, it is actually my camber that is out to buggery
Using a simple level that I use for my camp setup, my passenger wheel is almost perfectly vertical, but the driver side wheel sits with the bottom outwards
Again, please advise of a quick fix as it will be a while before I am somewhere to have it done proper.
Do I let the axle nut out a little?

[The Hueys]

The quick fix for tyre wear as described is to tighten the front nut on the trailing arm on the side that is wearing as that will pull the toe setting on that side in.

However, if the camber is out to buggery on one side then that tends to indicate a bent suspension arm or stub axle (which also messes up the toe) for which there is not easy fix. The arm will have to be replaced if this is what is wrong.

Most bent arms I've seen bend on the cross tube inboard of the spring mount which is usually caused by a very hard bottom out where the bumpstop stops everything but the momentum of the wheel and hub can be enough to want to keep moving and cause the arm to pivot around the sprint and bend the tube.

[CJ]

Craig
thanks for your reply
There does not appear to be anything bent, to the naked eye anyway
Please advise what (if any) difference tightening the axle nuts do?  It does not appear to be part of the adjustment in the instructions at all.