leaking roof

[IsuzuTopaz]

Hi Rob. We looked up this product on the web and found no negative comments and the manufacturers are claiming a UV stable product with 19 years in direct sunlight exposure. I felt that running a waterproofing tape over a narrow but long seam would give extra protection. It is a small expense given the cost of these vans and the nuisance of the leaks

[HappyTraveller]

I too suspected the cross joints and re-sealed them. Unfortunately it didn't work for me. I hope it does for you.

The real problem evaded me for so long because I always looked at the roof when the awning was packed up. It had me tricked, and I must say TT didn't pick it up at all. While the joint along the awning side of the roof looked OK with the awning in, a hairline crack opened up ever so slightly when the awning was out. The twisting effect on the side of the roof where the awning is mounted put stress on the roof seal. Only a very small movement, but enough to allow water in when the awning was out. Once identified, all fixed.

Cheers
Andrew

[Rob M]

Hi Isuzu Topaz, Thanks for your lead. I followed up with the company and they advised not to use the tape over silicon as silicon can cause bubbles. Had got a quote and was ready to proceed. Greatly appreciated their honest response

[Gavincb]

Yes mine also leaks.
It's a 2011 model and I found it was getting in behind the awning bolts amongst other places.

[Treme]

Hi Guys
How many tubes of sikaflex did you use on the roof?
I have removed all the old mastic and need to order some cartridges and as Bunnings don't have the 295uv,I want to make sure I have more than enough.

2011 topaz leaking (seems the mastic is only good for 10 years) ☹️

Cheers
David

[chris peiro]

hi treme,

           i had used the sausage style cartridges not the rigid standard tubes , the sausage style ones are a little bigger than the tubes and i used 2 tubes. but i had filled the gap between the outer roof frame and the inner panels with sikaflex first . then applied the high grade product over the top and to make it even more U/V protected i covered the area with 50mm wide aluminium strip.

  cheers chris   

[Big Unit]

Hi All, my 2011 Topaz is leaking from the roof so I am going to try to fix it. Any suggestions of high to work on the roof besides only a step ladder.

[Harry Lissimore]

Track does say not to walk on it or put any undue force on the roof.

[Big Unit]

Thanks Harry as this does help.

[Ropetangler]

Big Unit, you have most likely finished your roof work now, but if you haven't, or someone in the future needs to work on their Topaz roof, here is how I went about it. I was aware that TT did not want anyone to stand on the roof of their Topaz, so I used some 250 x 50mm hardwood planks which were long enough to span the roof from one side of the perimeter frame to the other.
At the time my roof had sagged, and I was later to find that it was full of water. A roof in good condition may require you to raise the planks 25mm or so by placing a packer under your planks where they rest on the aluminium extruded perimeter frame, to ensure that the planks clear the roof infill, and just rest on the outer perimeter, but I did not have that as a problem as I dismantled the top skin from the roof and removed all the saturated foam and replaced the strengthening support beam for the easy lift mechanism.
On this job I also jacked the roof up from the inside either side of the light channel, using some 600mm long, 100 x 50mm timber to spread the force against the ceiling. This prevented any marking of the ceiling and I lifted it about 15mm in the centre. Shaped stiffening ribs were laser cut in 6mm stainless steel and bolted back to back along the rivet lines joining each ceiling panel, the 5mm stainless bolts replacing the drilled out rivets. I had previously tried 5mm 5000series aluminium for the stiffening ribs, and although it helped a bit, it was just not stiff enough to raise the roof sufficiently, so we redid it in stainless. The final bit of stiffening was to again cut some 5mm 5000 series Aluminium in a very shallow V shape, to essentially stiffen the light channel and make it more of a one piece item rather than as TT designed it having a join in the centre , essentially crippling any strengthening it may have been able to offer. we cut these aluminium plates in Al, when cutting the original stiffening ribs for the roof space in Al which we later changed to stainless, If I was to start again I think that I would do the whole lot in Stainless steel, but it was not worth changing those aluminium bits for new stainless. Although I have them in place, they are not yet pop riveted on, I just have then held with cleco pins, pending the borrowing of a more suitable rivet gun for the 5/32 or 3/16 pop rivets.