Buying second hand - What to look for?

[mal1958]

Hi, I am thinking of buying a second hand Tvan.   
Most likely a late model MK2.
What things / areas of wear and tear do I need to watch for, when looking at a second hand unit.

Cheers
Mal.

[chris_a]

Where does one start? In no particular order of importance:

1) check that the rubber seals on the side hatches, rear hatch and ceiling vents are sound and there is no signs of dust / water ingress.

2) lift the mattress and rear carpet to look for signs of dust / water ingress

3) check electricals making sure that each light and power outlet is working

4) check that the electric and manual water pump are functioning

5) if possible, erect supplied sail / annex checking for wear and tear and completeness of poles, tent pegs and ropes

6) inspect the underside of the van paying particular attention to the condition of the suspension (shockers for signs of leaks and bump stops for signs of wear), wheel bearings looking for signs of leaks

7) check the condition of the tyres and rims, making sure the rims are sound and the tyre are not nearing the end of their life

check the stove is working and there are no noticeable smells suggestion gas leaks

9) check the integration of the tow hitch - does it articulate freely and does the locking mechanism work without suggesting it is full of accumulated dust and grime

10) plug it into you tow vehicle and check the towing lights and electric brakes work properly.

I'll stop at ten points and leave it to others to add to the list.

[CJ]

The above list from Chris is a good list.  Nothing to add really.
Note that not one item above should result in a "fail do not buy".  Several items if found are dead easy to fix.
One thing to note is that you may come across a short or long drawbar.  See separate threads for discussion - but just note it and decide beforehand if your vehicle can handle the short drawbar.
CJ

[chris_a]

Our Tvan has a short draw bar and we found it difficult to open the barn door on our Prado enough to get access to large storage bins, etc. the Tvan was also very difficult to reverse. We solved this by fitting an extended tow hitch designed to clear a bike carrier from the door mounted spare wheel of the Prado. We can now access the rear of the Prado sufficiently to get to the things we store there and reversing is now a breeze.

I've read where extending the tow hitch shifts the load stresses between the tow vehicle and the towed van but so far no issues have been identified. A cheaper option than extending the Tvan drawbar that's worth considering.

[mal1958]

Hi, Thank-you for the suggestions so far.   
The short/long drawbar looks like being the main issue for us, so will keep that in mind.
All the other things so far are basically maintenance issues, but there would be a cost to fix them. Good points for negotiation when the time comes.

Cheers,
Mal

[ftg racing]

another thing to look out for is cracks in the rear deck, pretty common problem and costs a couple of grand to replace

[ccol2621]

Our Tvan has a short draw bar and we found it difficult to open the barn door on our Prado enough to get access to large storage bins, etc. the Tvan was also very difficult to reverse. We solved this by fitting an extended tow hitch designed to clear a bike carrier from the door mounted spare wheel of the Prado. We can now access the rear of the Prado sufficiently to get to the things we store there and reversing is now a breeze.

I've read where extending the tow hitch shifts the load stresses between the tow vehicle and the towed van but so far no issues have been identified. A cheaper option than extending the Tvan drawbar that's worth considering.

Chris - looks like we have almost the same kit. Prado 150, Mk II Canning - short draw bar. Going through the process of kitting out the new Prado...which we upgraded from a series 90.

[chris_a]

We're just back from a four week "shake down" trip in or 150 series Prado towing the Tvan north from Melbourne up through Central NSW and thru to Carnarvon Gorge NP in Qld. I'll be interested to compare fuel economy figures. We averaged between 13.5 and 14.2 litres per hundred, blowing out to mid-15s when pushing into a strong head wind. We were travelling with a large kayak on the roof which didn't help with wind resistance.

[ccol2621]

Thanks Chris - your Tvan is definitely the same era & drawbar size. Our new 150 Prado only has the Hayman Reese & associated trailer connections plus electric brake controller at this stage. Waiting to get to the 4wd & camping shows that are coming up to get better pricing on other things....

For our shake-down trip (2 weeks) we are going home to Tassie at Christmas time, so it gets to go on the Spirit of Tasmania.  We don't own a kayak...

We are going on a mini-weekend away in mid Sep with 1-2 other relatively new Tvan owners. It's only a couple of hours each way, so will let you know our fuel figures after that. It will be our first trip with the 150.

Regards Cynthia

[The gun]

Apart from the legal ramifications when u extend the tow bar hitch or tongue it applies more leverage on the tow bars mounting bolts etc. Extending the draw bar while more expensive is the best option.

[chris_a]

Can you elaborate on the legal ramifications? I can't find anything on the web at the moment but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.


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[Dingo]

It was explained to me by a tow bar company that the ramifications centre on the modification to a manufacturers standard thereby potentially not being covered by insurance and rendering you personally liable for any damages or other injuries to parties.

[chris_a]

I'm using a rated Reece hitch so not sure what the manufacturer is referring to.


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[The Hueys]

I suspect what is being referred to is that a specific towbar is designed to be used with a specific ball mount (tongue) to achieve the rating that is stated on the tow bar. Once you replace the ball mount with a longer one, even if it is a genuine Hayman Reese one, then the towbar is no longer configured the same as it was when the load ratings were calculated. The extra leverage on the bar and its mounts will reduce its down load capacity and could, in the event of a failure, damage or injury, be construed as being caused by a modification outside the manufactures specifications. If you carried out that modification you could be liable.

Has anyone checked with the tow bar manufactured before fitting a longer ball mount to its effect in the rated capacity of the towbar?

On the other hand, Track have tested their drawbar extension to ensure it meets/exceeds the relevant design rules and is safe to use when fitted correctly. Which means that in the unlikely event of a failure it goes back on them to prove it was up to the job.

Scroll down this post to see some pics of what excessive loading can do:

http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=17564.100

Not all tow bar related, but still food for thought.

On a similar note, has anyone read the load placard for the tow bar fitted to their vehicle to ensure it meets the required rating for their trailer. For example some Hayman Reese 80 Series towbars are only rated for a ball load of 120kg which is less than the unloaded ball weight of most Tvans. Another example is a major 4x4 aftermarket manufacturers rear step bar for utes was only rated at 120kg as well.

Basically check your towing specs (including any deviations from the standard set up) to ensure you are safe and legal. 

On the topic of what to check when buying second hand, make sure everything works and is free from damage (including canvas, I've seen rotted out tents due to poor drying prior to storage). If there is some damage find out the cost to have it repaired. Something else to consider is what the wheels and tyres on the van are set up for, if it is set up for a particular vehicle to give interchangable wheels and you want it to suit your vehicle then the cost can be a couple of thousand dollars to convert.

Check for major suspension damage, while not common you do see the odd bent suspension arm/stub axle which can be hard to spot if it is only minor.

Be prepared for a full service once you get your new van; replace bearings, shocker bushes, wheel alignment and brake check (the brakes are a hidden item that can't be seen unless pulled apart and could cost upward of $500 to replace if excessively worn). Batteries and tyres may be past their best. You may also want to consider getting a new mattress, one that is fresh and hasn't been sweated in by other people.

All that said, you are usually pretty safe buying a second hand late model MkII Tvan as they wear well and don't suffer too many common faults.

[Dingo]

Wow, those pictures say it all. Thanks for clarifying that Craig. And for getting us back on thread.